The winners of International Jewellery London’s highly successful exhibitor competition, Editor’s Choice, are announced today. Recognising jewellery designers and suppliers who exhibit the most creative and cutting edge jewellery at IJL, the stars of this year’s line-up are Sarah Ho, Cesari Diffusione Di Simone Cesari, Mirka Janeckova Jewellery, Fei Liu, Dower & Hall and Andrew Geoghegan – with DDonna by Ruggero Broggian and Flora Bhattachary being highlighted as highly commended.
This year’s judges Claire Adler, luxury communications consultant and Financial Times contributor, and Event Director Sam Willoughby, selected the winners from a range of categories, which included two new categories, ‘Diamonds in Design’, to celebrate the show’s Diamond Edition, and ‘In Stile Italiano’, recognising Italian craftsmanship as part of the Italian Market Focus at this year’s show.
Both judges were impressed by the superb level of craftsmanship of the chosen pieces. Sam Willoughby, Event Director, commented: “Judging this competition, now in its seventh year, has been a real pleasure - the pieces are very different, beautifully executed and many have a fascinating story to tell. The range and variety is a true reflection of the breadth of brands and designers at this year’s show. My congratulations go to all our winners and I look forward to seeing them at IJL 2015.”
Claire Adler, who was greatly impressed by the winning five, added: “While the 2015 IJL Editor’s Choice winner line-up is made up exclusively of British and Italian jewellers, the entrants to this year’s competition were from around the world, hailing from countries such as Oman, Germany, Romania, Sweden and Denmark. Competitions like Editor’s Choice are an important way of talent spotting gifted jewellers and helping to accelerate their career journeys by securing them valuable recognition and exposure. And I love the fact that a significant number of previous winners have gone on to win other prestigious jewellery and design competitions”.
The 2015 winners are:
DIAMONDS IN DESIGN
A head-turning diamond piece of jewellery designed in a spirit of celebration to coincide with IJL's Diamond Jubilee
Winner: Sarah Ho - Numerati ‘60’
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of IJL, Sarah Ho has created two rings that show the number 60 in18ct rose gold and diamonds. The inspiration comes from her latest Numerati Collection, a suite of nine lucky number rings from 1-9, launched in May 2015. The diamonds elegantly twist and turn to show the numbers but, when worn they become a hidden secret. In honour of IJL’s 60th anniversary, Sarah has designed an exclusive diamond ‘0’ to go with the number ‘6’ to add a special sparkle to the celebrations.
“I am thrilled to have won the Editor’s Choice Award for IJL 2015. This Award is definitely noticed by the press and the visitors and is a talking point at the show. As this is the 60th anniversary for IJL, it makes the Award extra special for us as we have been a keen supporter of IJL since we first exhibited almost 10 years ago”, commented Sarah Ho.
Clare Adler commented: “Sarah Ho’s clever and subtle Numerati collection, in its 6 and 0 combination, is the perfect way for Editor’s Choice to celebrate IJL’s Jubilee year”.
IN STILE ITALIANO
A jewellery piece from an Italian exhibitor at IJL evoking Italy's flair for impeccable craftsmanship and inspirational design
Winner: Cesari Diffusione Di Simone Cesari – Alla Schiava Bracelet
The Cesari family jewellers have been creating jewellery since 1919. In 1994 Simone Cesari, the fourth generation, introduced a new company making luxury accessories which combine gold, sterling silver, diamonds and precious stones with precious materials such as reptile skin or the finest leather from Florence. As a result, Cesari created a synthesis between two characteristic Italian artisanal skills: jewellery and leather manufacture. The collection is mostly bracelets in four different widths for both women and men. “Alla Schiava” is the ancient name of the bracelets that the ladies of the Roman Empire used to wear, inspired by those used to manacle the slaves and the gladiators. The winning piece is a rigid open bracelet covered with light blue lizard skin, decorated with 18 kt yellow gold, drops in natural turquoise and a small yellow sapphire.
Simone U. Cesari explained: “IJL 2015 offered us the chance to present a completely different collection from what has been seen up to now. I am confident that the cosmopolitan customers in the UK will appreciate this new collection and its new take on true Italian style. Being selected as an Editor’s Choice winner is a wonderful confirmation of this and we are proud of our work.”
Highly Commended: DDonna by Ruggero Broggian – Butterfly Collection
DDonna by Ruggero Broggian’s finely crafted butterfly pieces use a delicate combination of gold and precious stones to suggest the weightless beauty of pure flight. Crafted in 18 carat white, yellow and pink gold with diamonds set with pink, yellow and blue sapphires. These pieces are inspired by the everyday shapes found in nature: astonishingly simple creations which hide a deep complexity, and these basic shapes created by nature have inspired DDonna by Ruggero Broggian new collections.
“It is a great honour for us to be highly commended in the In Stile Italiano category in the Editor’s Choice selection this year. This award recognises our passion to create unique jewels made with the skilled craftsmanship associated with Italian Art. We hope that our concept of beauty is perfectly in tune with what women want. We are constantly looking for new styles, selecting precious stones from the best gem markets to create new designs that will become the jewels of the future. We are very grateful for this recognition as we debut as an exhibitor at IJL - and see this as a very rewarding start”, stated Ruggero Broggian.
Claire Adler added: “A first for IJL Editor’s Choice this year is our category for Italian jewellery design. Both the Alla Schiava bracelet and the Broggian Ruggero Butterfly Collection epitomise everyday luxury, a style the Italian designers have unequivocally mastered”.
MOST INNOVATIVE NEW COLLECTION
5 to 6 pieces from the same collection with the winning collection featured on the IJL Runway
Winner: Mirka Janeckova Jewellery - White Collection
Mirka Janeckova uses exclusively white materials – such as porcelain and sterling silver – for her ‘White Collection’ which is inspired by the meaning of the colour white, surrealism and the deep sea. Her techniques are a mixture of traditional goldsmithing as well as new ones which cast the porcelain in place. This technique creates a flowing connection between the ceramic and metal parts and gives an individual uniqueness to her rings. Porcelain pieces appear fragile but they are surprisingly durable with hardness 7 on the Mohs scale – the same as most semi-precious stones. Mirka, who designs for women who are free of convention and not afraid to dream, will introduce a new collection at IJL which incorporates pearls in the design.
Mirka Janeckova explains: ''I am very thrilled and proud to have won this award. I am honoured that my work is perceived as innovative and I will make sure I will carry on with more innovations and development in my future collections. I am happy that this award will bring a lot of attention to porcelain, material which has a great potential for the future shape of the jewellery industry.''
Claire Adler added: “Mirka Janeckova’s White Collection is the kind of jewellery that takes you a little bit by surprise, it makes you turn your head and do a double take. This makes it ideal for placing within a catwalk show, which is exactly what we’ll be doing with it at IJL this year”.
A show stopping piece or collection that photographs well
Winner: Fei Liu – Bespoke Necklace
Fei Liu cleverly combines his client’s vision with his expertise to create his masterpiece bespoke designs. With his studio of highly skilled craftsmen, Fei created this stunning necklace featuring 45 varying sized of spherical green tourmaline beads, with a combined weight of 509 carats; as well as 84g of 18ct white gold, 17.7 carats of diamonds and 19.6 carats of garnets. The feather centrepiece can also be detached from the beaded neckpiece and worn as a large dramatic brooch.
Fei Liu commented: “It’s an honour to win the award for Visual Impact; I am deeply humbled. I’m very fortunate to do what I love and I will always push myself as a designer to innovate”.
Claire Adler added: “Fei Liu’s bespoke necklace is all about a decidedly grown-up approach to glamorous dressing - a rarefied piece to wear and adore”.
Highly Commended: Flora Bhattachary – Jyamiti Rings
Stars of Flora’s Lubhati collection, the Jyamiti Rings, evoke the rich colour and pattern of India to bold effect. The luxurious collection combines vibrant lapidary from the UK with innovative CAD technology. The designs were developed from exploring how Islamic pattern could work in 3D. The Zig Zag ring uses deep hand carved amethyst combined with 18 carat gold and the mysterious lustre of a single black peacock pearl. The Floral ring sparkles with a detailed rock crystal carving, combined with a brilliant cut diamond. Flora creates dramatic jewellery for women with attitude.
Flora said: “I’m delighted to have been selected for an Editor’s Choice Award – especially as this is my first time at IJL. Showing on the KickStart stand will be even more exciting with the Visual Impact Award behind me. It’s great that an international trade audience will get to see my Jyamiti rings alongside some new work. Now I’m really looking forward to the opportunities that IJL will bring!”
Claire Adler added: “Flora Bhattachary’s delectable Jyamiti rings are beautifully finished and look especially gorgeous when several are worn together.”
A piece or collection produced in volume that demonstrates thorough research of the target market and current trends – destined to become a best seller.
Winner: Dower & Hall - Cherish Collection
Cherish is an innovative range of lockets that encapsulates the current trend and demand for personalised modern-day heirlooms.
Cherish enables the wearer to tell their own story, as the lockets can forever be adapted by exchanging photographs and Treasure combinations. Extremely hard-wearing sapphire crystal glass creates the unique dual window lockets, allowing the contents to be visible from both sides. The wearer can choose to fill their locket from a variety of meaningful keepsake and birthstone Treasures, the addition of a sentimental photograph and engraving of their choice makes the overall piece truly personal. Catering for the layered look, the lockets are available in 3 sizes and on varying chain lengths; each design is offered in a range of metal hues - 18ct yellow and rose gold vermeil, sterling silver and for the lovers of luxury, 9ct yellow gold with pave set diamonds.
Dower & Hall have created cohesive POS material and packaging, and will run separate social media platforms to engage retailers and consumers as part of their comprehensive pro-active marketing campaign. The launch coincides with the celebration of Dower & Hall’s 25th anniversary and the Treasures have been selected from iconic past collections to highlight this further.
Dan Dower and Diane Hall commented: “We are delighted to have been chosen as winners of the Editor’s Choice Commercial Vision. This is especially nice as we designed the ‘Cherish’ range to be a celebration of our 25 years in business. It also coincides with this being our 20th year exhibiting at IJL - so another big milestone to celebrate. Winning Commercial Vision proves we are continuing to strive forward with lots to offer to our wonderful stockists. We are looking forward to another successful 25 years!”
Claire Adler added: “Commercial Vision winner Dower & Hall’s Cherish Locket captured our attention because it’s both commercial and unconventional - a well-thought out modern take on a traditional heirloom.”
A piece or collection that is worked with technical innovation or a rarely used technique
Winner: Andrew Geoghegan – Renaissance
The Renaissance is a truly innovative take on a classic design and also boasts an exquisite form of stone setting. Classic designs are usually described as such because of their aesthetics, longevity and style. It is essential that when a designer is developing ideas based on classics, they retain respect for them and are very sensitive as to how they are reinvented or adapted. When viewed from the top, the Renaissance is a delightful cluster and perhaps the only distinguishing feature is the elongated and dynamic centre stone claws. However, when the ring is rotated, the real magic of the piece emerges. Many of Andrew’s designs have ‘fluidity’ as an underlying theme and this ring is no exception. The centre claws appear to travel through the surround setting, morph into the shank and then flow seamlessly into the surround setting – representing a highly complicated skilled feat in terms of CAD, goldsmithing and the setting of the surround stones.
“Winning Editor’s Choice is incredible news for me – as it will give the company increased awareness with both the trade and consumer, as well as wrap the brand in more excellence. The benefits internally are equally dramatic as the whole team is understandably delighted and further motivated. For me personally, it is an industry pat on the back and acknowledgement that we are on the right track. Winning also has an extra significance as we launch our eagerly awaited rebrand which we promise is confident, innovative and luxury – as you would expect!” stated Andrew Geoghegan.
Claire Adler added: “The clean lines and geometric finish of Andrew Geoghegan’s Renaissance ring belie its intricacy. It incorporates the workmanship of a dedicated and passionate jeweller”.
For further information, please go to http://www.jewellerylondon.com/editorschoice
Free online visitor registration for the Diamond Jubilee Edition of IJL 2015 is now open - www.jewellerylondon.com/register.
IJL 2015 will run from 6 to 8 September 2015 at Olympia GRAND, London.
For more information about IJL 2015 please contact: Jennifer Hall-Thompson or Suzanna Hammond +44 (0) 207 630 6633 / +44 (0) 7770 802 442 IJLPressoffice@reedexpo.co.uk
About International Jewellery London
International Jewellery London is your only dedicated UK jewellery trade event, unveiling the latest inspiring collections, contemporary and classic. IJL celebrates the most talented, innovative British and International jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers. International Jewellery London takes place at Olympia, London from 6 – 8 September 2015. For further information please visit www.jewellerylondon.com IJL is sponsored by the NAG & BJA and supported by the GIA, Gem-A, The Houlden Group, The Company of Master Jewellers, Platinum Guild International, The Responsible Jewellery Council and CIBJO.
About Reed Exhibitions
Reed Exhibitions is the world’s leading events organiser, with over 500 events in 43 countries. In 2014 Reed brought together over seven million event participants from around the world generating billions of dollars in business. Today Reed events are held throughout the Americas, Europe, the Middle East, Asia Pacific and Africa and organised by 41 fully staffed offices. Reed Exhibitions serves 43 industry sectors with trade and consumer events. It is part of the RELX Group plc, a world-leading provider of information solutions for professional customers across industries. www.reedexpo.com