AW2013 IJL Catwalk Trend Report

  • AW2013 IJl Catwalk Trend Report

    Adorn Insight brings you a roundup of the AW2013 jewellery catwalk trends that are set to influence consumer buying decisions next season.

    Targeted at designers, manufacturers, buyers and retailers this report aims to give you a strategic handle on the key trends that will offer commercial resilience in a competitive market. 

    Whilst our visual references are predominately costume jewellery – such is the nature of catwalk showstoppers – we have distilled our analysis to focus on the opportunities that are set to impact the global fine, designer and luxury jewellery sectors.

  •  Gold

    L’Wren Scott; Emanuel Ungaro; Dolce & Gabbana

    Renowned for its mouthwatering lustre, gold was AW2013’s most popular metal, its versatility coming through in the myriad silhouettes and finishes that oozed sophistication and luxury. 

    L’Wren Scott’s decadent celebration of gold was inspired by Gustav Klimt whose iconic coils and spirals took the form of glistening precious metal tattoos, golden hoops and cascading bib chokers. 

    Emanuel Ungaro sent out flamboyant golden pins in the form of hothouse flowers and butterflies whilst Dolce & Gabanna’s micro mosaic-set, gold filigree jewels included OTT crucifix earrings, rosary-style pendants and fairtytale princess crowns.

    Interpret The Look: Use clever cut out techniques and explore ancient wire crafts like filigree and fretwork to drive maximum surface area and create visual appeal.

    Flower clusters, crosses and round medallion shapes are key motifs.
    Chandelier earrings, bibbed high neck chokers, feminine tattoo-inspired bracelets, rings and cuffs should inspire new directions.

  •  Sleek

    Alexis Mabille; Gianfranco Ferré; Vionnet

    Strong futuristic references merged with crisp outlines and signature shapes underpinned a trend that favoured high shine metallics and minimal surfaces. Alexis Mabille’s rings – curvaceous domed gob stoppers paired with slab-like counterparts – were a sleek exercise in minimal stacking. Gianfranco Ferré’s sharp clothes were adorned with glossy tube chokers worn solo, stacked up or modified into leather-covered breastplates. 

    Vionnet’s statement jewels demonstrated the allure of creating a look in which jewellery assumes a similar quality to the clothing it’s worn with. Here, the drapes and folds played with proportion and challenged the concept of a traditional bangle silhouette in an eye-catching statement that demanded space and attention.

    Interpret The Look: Use thin tubing and electroforming to allude to the idea of expansive surface areas being covered in precious metals. High shine finishes are key to this trend. Use folding techniques for added drama and effect.

  • Artist's Palette

    Vivienne Westwood; House of Holland; Oscar de la Renta; Anna Sui

    Faced with a raft of possibility when it came to colour in jewellery, designers showed new updates in the form of unusual combinations and striking tonal intensity. This, together with innovative new applications like carved stones and unusual gem cuts, resulted in a striking cross-pollination of ideas.

    Vivienne Westwood’s retro-flavoured choker showed how muted shades strung together can be used as an effective colour vehicle. House of Holland’s kitsch crystal jewellery mixed and matched complimentary colours with a distinctive 80s vibe whilst Oscar de l’Renta’s carved stones made a statement in saturated tones of cobalt blue, turquoise and acid green.

    Anna Sui’s explosive palette of juicy jewels in warm and cool shades further endorsed colour as king for AW2013

    Interpret The Look: Look at new style applications using carved gems. Inject striking or unexpected colour combinations into new collections, focusing on the visual impact and head turning appeal.

  • Opulence

    Ralph Lauren; DSquared2; Alexander McQueen

    Luxury continued to thrive on the catwalks, not least when it came to jewellery. Decadent lashings of gem encrusted jewels, layers of gold and an OTT approach to styling supported a trend that was, quite literally, rich in inspiration.

    Draped gold chain necklace, embroidered chokers and delicate gold drop earrings saw Ralph Lauren re-visit familiar terrain in a collection that nodded to the opulence of Russia’s past.

    Dsquared2’s fascination with the 1940s inspired a jewellery collection full of jewel encrusted pins and bib necklaces. True to the brand’s rebellious form, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton put a satirical spin on the traditional Catholic regalia inspirations that underpinned her garments, by paring them with pearl-set head cages and four-finger knuckledusters.

    Interpret The Look: When applying this more-is-more approach to design and styling focus on luxury elements and bespoke materials that shy away from compromise and celebrate the exuberant nature of jewellery.

     

  • Punk

    Lanvin; Versace; Moschino

    Sugar and spice are all well and nice but it was the bad girls who really ruled the catwalks this season. Rebellion prevailed with lashings of rock chick attitude.

    Lanvin festooned necks with layer upon layer of curb chain necklaces, adding pearl trimmed pendants bearing slogans such as ‘Hot’ and ‘Love’, as well as giant name necklaces bearing the scrolling Lanvin signature.

    Versace’s bugle beaded body jewellery and chokers, rings and cuffs adorned with improbably large spikes riffed on the agro punk aesthetic, giving it fashion friendly spin, of course.

    Moschino’s clashed aesthetic – Rococo alphabet hoops, military-flavoured brooches and gold-trimmed tartan bangles – fed into this fascination with a subversive subculture where anarchy ruled.

    Interpret The Look: Curb chains, pearls, name necklaces, spikes and scrolls should be considered as design elements and used in way that spells attitude with a capital ‘A’.

     

  • Armour

    Jean Paul Gaultier; Christopher Kane; Maxime Simoens; Dries Van Noten

    Ideas informed by a desire for protection continue to inspire, and little wonder given the global unrest that remains part of our lives. This somewhat hard-edged approach to adornment manifested in neck-embracing collars, ear cuffs, segmented finger rings and stacked wrist wear.

    Jean Paul Gaultier’s mixed metal cuffs – some embellished with corset-style lacing – were stacked together to create a protective carapace over models’ arms. Christopher Kane’s striking metallic chokers – which echoed the ripple detail on his clothes – fanned elegantly across breastbones, whilst Maxime Simoen’s knuckle cuffs, fashioned from articulated metal segments, were strapped at the wrist and fingers. Fully encasing his models’ ears, Dries Van Noten’s crystal encrusted earpieces were a striking update on the ear cuff, a jewellery piece that has been the sleeper hit of the last couple of seasons.

    Interpret The Look: Update your collection with ear cuffs and use stitch detail and overlapping sheet metal to hint at articulation, even if the application is purely decorative. Use cutout techniques to reduce surface to weight ratio.

    Adorn Insight is a leading jewellery trends analysis agency providing strategic and commercially viable trend information to the global jewellery industry. http://www.adorninsight.com  

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