SS2014 IJL Catwalk Trend Report

  • SS2014 IJL Catwalk Trend Report

    Adorn Insight brings you a roundup of the SS2014 jewellery catwalk trends that are set to influence consumer buying decisions next season.

    Targeted at designers, manufacturers, buyers and retailers this report aims to give you a strategic handle on the key trends that will offer commercial resilience in a competitive market.

    Whilst the nature of the catwalk means that our visual references are predominately costume jewellery we have distilled our analysis to focus on the opportunities that are set to impact the global fine, designer and luxury jewellery sectors.


  • Maxed Out

    L-R: Emporio Armani, Chanel (top), Nina Ricci (bottom) AF Vandevorst

    Big is beautiful seemed to be the mantra inspiring a host of OTT looks on the SS2014 catwalks. At Emporio Armani we saw oversized earrings fashioned from giant blue discs whilst at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld turned the maison’s iconic pearl motif on its head, sending out all manner of interpretations ranging from gobstopper-sized pearl finials on slender silver metal chokers, to fistfuls of geometric rings set with clusters of pearls.

    Nina Ricci and Balmain both used bangles to play with proportion, the former with exaggerated bezels set with large malachite slices, the latter with blown up curb links.

    But for sheer drama it was AF Vandevorst who really stole the show with upper body pieces comprising cascades of golden charms and chains covering head, ear and upper torso. Safe to say, this is a trend for which retiring wallflowers need not apply.

    Interpret the look: Think out of the box and seek out solutions that strike a balance between big impact and price point expectations.

  • Dark Romance

    L-R: Saint Laurent (top), Viktor & Rolf (bottom), Thom Browne, Jean Paul Gaultier

    As one of AW2013’s biggest trends, it’s no surprise that punk’s not ready to fade away just yet. But as with all things fashion, the imperative to stay fresh means that this subculture-inspired mood has mutated into something altogether more interesting. Ever so slightly fetishistic, and tinged with a dash of darkside Victoriana, punk’s previous ‘in your face’ toughness has given way to an off-beat version of femininity in which more streamlined silhouettes and daintier proportions have come to the fore. Hardware elements – ball chains at Jean Paul Gaultier, industrial links at Saint Laurent and the iconic safety pin, courtesy of Viktor & Rolf – still form the cornerstones of this look, in which a monochrome palette and silver metals still rule – but luxe is a definite watchword on the journey into the velvet underground.

    Interpret the look: Explore new silhouettes that tease and tantalise. Introduce unexpected details to evoke an edgier aesthetic.

  • Athletic Club

    L-R: Ohne Titel, Tommy Hilfiger, Givenchy, Kenzo

    Injecting a youthful vibe into the proceedings for SS2014 were an array of jewellery looks inspired by the sporting life. Central to these looks – in which wristwear dominated - was the use of soft materials such as cord, toweling, ribbons and even feathers. Flashes of metal hardware added a utilitarian sensibility, which contrasted nicely with more whimsical details such as giant crystals at Givenchy and Tommy Hilfiger’s friendship bracelets which looked like they might have been hitting the steroids. Knots continued to be a popular motif with some of the coolest showing up on monochrome rope bangle sets at Ohne Titel. Givenchy’s armwear brought climbing apparatus to mind (that, or those stripy elasticated belts that were so popular in the 70s!) and Kenzo’s coiled cable chokers in a range of bright hues were based on fishing kit.

    Interpret the look: Look closely at the design elements that make up this trend such as rope, spiral wire and braid and use these to inspire new directions in metal castings and chain.

  • Slick Silhouettes

    L-R: Emporio Armani, Balenciaga, Céline

    In contrast to the prevalence of showy, maxed out looks that tend to dominate catwalk jewellery, it was refreshing to note the more minimalist aesthetics of a trend that is, in a sense, as much about what isn’t there as what is. Wires, rods and tubular structures formed the basis of barely there shapes where negative space was used to draw attention to the body under the jewellery. At Balenciaga, the season’s most popular neckwear shape – the choker – appeared as a neck-encircling version of a high collar. At Céline, solid neon-hued cuffs were paired for contrast with bangles whose angular frameworks resembled urban scaffolding. Emporio Armani put a fresh spin on the classic hoop earring with petal-shaped structures that extended to the models’ shoulders.

    Interpret the look: Look at the design possibilities around the idea of negative space and make a big statement using frames, outlines and silhouettes.

  • Planet Botanic

    L-R: Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga (top), Christopher Kane (bottom) Prabal Gurung

    From beautiful big blooms at the likes of Suno and DSquared2 to the dainty florals at Christopher Kane and Jenny Packham, SS2014 is set to be a veritable garden of delights. Dolce & Gabbana’s gold hoop earrings swung from floral buttons. The hoops themselves resembled trellises adorned with a multitude of tiny white and pink enamel blooms. Christopher Kane’s blossoms had a similar pointilliste appearance, although his were set with multi-coloured crystal gemstones. Prabal Gurung’s rings were an interesting mash-up involving realistic rose blooms (albeit in far from natural hues) set on armour-like rings which extended the full length of models’ fingers. Typically, Balenciaga turned the trend on its head, eschewing petals for leaves which overlapped to create a multi-layered silver choker.

    Interpret the look: Embrace the flower motif and think of innovative ways to include it as a design detail rather than a one-off piece.

  • Culture Club

    L-R: Altuzarra, Duro Olowu, Alexis Mabille, Givenchy

    The world may be getting smaller but that doesn’t mean that its many cultures cease to inspire and enthrall. On the catwalks in each of the four major capitals, we saw jewellery looks plucked from a host of regions, and eras. Layers and stacks dominated here, from multi-coloured bead necklaces at Duro Olowu and jangles of silver fishbone chains at Rebecca Minkoff to leather and gold bangle stacks at Derek Lam and multiple earring studs at Givenchy. Forged and engraved metal also offered up potential for new ideas. Altuzzara’s classically-inspired torque with spiral detailing proved that sometimes the old ideas are the best. Alexis Mabille’s repoussé metal cuff, with its slightly new age sunray motif, brought a nice artisanal vibe to the mix.

    Interpret the look: Take inspiration from traditional craft and introduce modern design silhouettes to update with a twist.



    Adorn Insight is a specialised resource dedicated to providing market intelligence, data analysis and trend forecasts to the global jewellery industry. Their clients include manufacturers, designers, retailers and buyers working across the fashion to luxury fine jewellery spectrum. They also provide bespoke consultancy services to jewellery professionals seeking new opportunities for growth.

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